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Monthly Archives: May 2016

  • Chinos vs Khakis - What are the Major Differences?

    Chinos vs Khakis Once a modern man with disposable income starts seriously researching and developing his own personal style, he may turn to several sources for direction, including, but not limited to: men's magazines, stylists, mentors, male friends with great fashion sense, and his own memory.

    In recounting models of success, he may recall his dad saying when he was younger, "There's nothing like a good pair of khakis." Although khakis have stood the test of time as far as durability and practicality, for the modern man that understands style, fit and fabric details, he should opt for a pair of chinos.

    What are Chinos?

    Contrary to first impression, the word "chinos" is not a brand name; it's a general term to describe a style of cotton-based trousers. One way to describe what chinos are, is to explain what they are not. They aren't khakis. A pair of "khakis" is often used to describe another style of pant that is similar.

    The generic description of khakis earned this moniker because they often come in the color khaki. Although, they do not have to be. Other common colors are black and navy. In the U.S. when people refer to chinos or khakis they are talking about a certain type of pant regardless of color. In other countries, this may differ.

    This question of chinos verses khakis has been posed all over the Internet. It's a common question in men's fashion forums, as well as even sites like Yahoo! Answers or Quora. When posed the question in an open forum, this is how one Quora user answered:

    "If you look at the words 'chino' and 'khaki,' chino means a kind of heavy-duty twill woven textile and khaki is a tan color. [Competitor] sells chino pants, also known as chinos, in navy, dark brown, and sometimes other colors as well as tan and taupe. Chinos are a little stiffer and more rugged, more suitable for physical work. Chinos often have extra wide belt loops to hold heavy duty work belts. Khakis are often cut like suit pants; it's just that they are made in a soft cotton twill or flat weave fabric." - Stephanie Vardavas

    Chinos vs Khakis

    Chinos are usually made from a more lightweight 100% cotton, although some companies use a small percentage of other fabrics or mixes for stretch, and khakis carry a heavier blend.

    *More form fitting/tailored look

    *No center crease lines

    *Considered dressier (at this point in history)

    *Comes in more a much larger variety of colors than khakis

    *Concealed side stitching

    Quick History of Chinos

    "Developed in the mid-19th century for British and French military uniforms, chino cloth has since migrated into civilian wear. Trousers of such a fabric gained popularity in the U.S. when Spanish–American War veterans returned from the Philippines with their twill military trousers.

    Etymology

    The etymology of the term chino is disputed. Some sources identify the root as the American Spanish language word chino, which translated literally means toasted. Because the cloth itself was originally manufactured in China, the name of the trousers may have come from the country of origin." - Wikipedia

    You can pickup brown, navy, or black chinos on RYE51.com.

  • What Makes the L.B.M. 1911 Deconstructed Blazer So Legendary?

    Tan L.B.M. 1911 Jacket

    We were recently visited by Lubiam Senior Account Executive Larry Lentini. He made his seasonal visit to Texas all the way from Lubiam's 52nd street New York office. He gave us an abbreviated history of the Lubiam brand, as well as showed us the latest in deconstructed jackets and blazers.

    A little over 100 years ago, founder Luigi Bianchi Mantova created several Lubiam brands including: L.B.M. 1911, Su Misura, and 1911 Lubiam Cerimonia. Each specialize in a different clothing category. For example, 1911 Lubiam Cerimonia is their formal attire line. L.B.M. 1911 is the label they use for their typically more casual, deconstructed jackets.

    What is a "deconstructed" jacket? Sometimes referred to as "unconstructed", deconstructed means the jacket does not come with lining on the inside. This makes the fit more relaxed and casual. Secondarily, it helps give more room for layering.

    L.B.M. 1911 Deconstructed Jacket & Blazer Breakdown

      • *Handmade in Italy
      • *All don a unique signature lapel pin
      • *Athletic fit that tapers nicely in the middle
      • *Excellent for travel
    Tan L.B.M. 1911 Jacket Lapel Pin

    Someone asked in the online men's fashion forum Dappered Threads, "Is L.B.M. 1911 the 'Holy Grail' of unstructured [sic] blazers?"  The thread initiator posted neckdown photos of himself in his L.B.M. 1911 blazer, and explained how this piece has not received any alterations or tailoring, but fit perfectly and looked great.

    He received 15 comments, all of which whole-heartily agreed with him. Online research can definitely help in your quest to find the perfect deconstructed cotton blazer.

    L.B.M. 1911 blazers history, fit, and how they can be worn at work with Tan L.B.M. 1911 Jacket Buttonsslacks or on the weekend with denim makes it a great addition to any man's wardrobe. Others will wonder why you look so good. The secret is in the fit. On the scale of uniqueness and details, these jackets get an A+; each jacket is individually dyed, so no two are exactly the same. Each is a truly one-of-a-kind piece for your collection that will surely get you noticed even in the more traditional colors.

    L.B.M. 1911 Deconstructed Jacket & Blazer Fabrics

    Depending on the jacket, L.B.M. 1911 sport coats and blazers are made from cotton, wool/silk blends, alpaca, flannel, mohair and warm and precious wools. In some of their lines they offer a wide range of bouclé and knitted effects, hopsack fabrics and knop yarns.

    Because they are made in Italy, you'll notice the sizing differences. On the actual jacket, when 52 is listed on the label, that's actually a 42 in American sizing. A 48 is a 38,  a 56 is a 46, etc. On RYE51.com, they are converted from Italian to American sizing for ease of shopping. Browse RYE 51's latest collection of L.B.M. 1911 jackets by clicking here.

    Maroon L.B.M. 1911 Jacket Neck Blue L.B.M. 1911 Jacket Neck Dark Brown L.B.M. 1911 Jacket Neck

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